November 2007 - April 2008
The hiring of the first female cabin crews by airlines in the 1930s necessitated the creation of uniforms for a new profession. These included distinct head coverings and, although many airlines have phased them out, hats were once a requirement and are still issued by a number of airlines today. This exhibition looks at the airline uniform hat, or cap, and its evolution as the crowning touch in the fashions of flight.
Flight attendants—a term universally adopted in the mid 1970s replacing stewardess and air hostess—were originally required to be registered nurses. Their uniforms in the early 1930s reflected this profession and the nurse's short cap, derived from a nun's habit, was worn in flight. This style functioned as much as the symbol of a caregiver as it did to keep one's hair back. As the airlines eased the nursing requirement they began adopting uniforms in the late 1930s and 1940s that were more military in style. While caps varied among airlines of this period, most had a regimental bearing. With increased competition in the post-World War II air travel boom the airline uniform became an extension of the company image. By the late 1940s and in the 1950s, fashion designers were hired by airlines to create uniforms and haute couture intersected with air travel as more stylish, yet demure, ensembles were introduced.
Trends in popular culture were vividly displayed in the air during the 1960s when mod fashions exploded on to the scene and many airlines were eager to emulate the go-go lifestyle. During the 1970s, and on into the following decades, airline fashions diversified. Setting a more casual tone, designers used whimsical mix and match color combinations while emphasizing function and comfort. The uniform was also used to showcase national identity and cultural traditions. By the 1990s, many airlines turned to a more professional look, and others mixed contemporary fashion with retro touches from earlier periods. While gloves, shoes, and handbags were once carefully coordinated accessories for the airline uniform, it is the cap that has always been the foremost signifier of its wearer's career identity.